Chapter 38: Surf

Surfing is an old sport. It has been an important part of Hawaiian culture for hundreds of years, practiced long before the first wetsuit was donned or any sponsorship money was paid out. And while we will never be able to directly applaud the true originator—the first person to stand up on an opportunely shaped slab of driftwood—there are a few known pioneers to whom we can pay homage.

One of these men is Walter Hoffman. An original big-wave charger, influential board builder, and surf-inspired textile innovator, Walter’s contribution to surf culture cannot be overstated. As father to Dibi Fletcher and Joyce Hoffman, father-in-law to Herbie Fletcher, and grandfather to Christian and Nathan Fletcher, Walter has been generous in passing his gifts down to his family, whether by nature or nurture.

Herbie Fletcher’s excitement about all things surf has only intensified over the last 50 years. He is extremely knowledgeable and passionate when it comes to surf destinations and gear, but nothing compares to the love and respect he feels for his peers.

While some veterans pay no mind to the youngsters, Herbie recognizes the talent of future torchbearers and maintains a sincere admiration for anyone who is deserving of it. He is never shy about giving praise where it is due, and if nothing else, what follows in this chapter is a testament to that.

Most big institutions resist big change. Despite the stereotypes, surfing is a good example. As “free and easy” as wave riding was always meant to be, some stodgy greybeards felt that the budding aerial movement of the 1980s was going to muddy their pristine pastime. They argued that intentionally breaking contact with the wave amounted to nothing more than a glorified kick-out, only good for the glossies. While several prime targets emerged around the same time, Christian Fletcher bore the brunt of mainstream surf’s indignation.

Matt “Archy” Archbold is one of the fastest, loosest people to ever stand on a surfboard. “He goes so fast all the hair flew right off his head, and if you ever hang out while he’s drinking, you could very well end up dead.”

- Christian Fletcher