Good fashion will always feel a pull between profitability and underground popularity, but if anybody can walk that fine line, it’s Chicago’s Saint Alfred. They manage to remain in high regard, and in business. Saint Alfred’s Krabby says it best: “I think we have more of a vested interest in keeping it tight. It’s core, it’s not the BS.”

Frank151: Tell us about the history of your store.
Saint Alfred: Saint Alfred opened in 2005 ’cause there wasn't really a lot of kind of streetwear presence in Chicago. Actually there was, but it was more on a kind of Rocawear, Academics, hip-hop kind of tip. It had been here but as things had changed from the ’80s to the ’90s to the 2000's, it had “gone with the wind” so to speak. So [Who*?] came out here 2005, they already had connections and relationships with a lot of people doing cool shit on the surf/skate aesthetic and realised [*1:08] said we should open a store there. We did it, opened it and sold brands that had never been sold in Chicago. Things like HUF, DQM, Lalo*, Videm*, Futura, Saint Alfred obviously, among others, MX*. Pretty fresh. So that's where we started.

F151: Were there any other shops that inspired you?
STA: You know, I don't know the full details from the owners’ perspectives. Obviously being owned by some of the people who were behind Kicks Hawaii. There was Andy long before, you know, like the most recent boom or influx / trend, whatever you want to call it. KICKS/HI opened in 2001 I think, it was partially based off what's happening in the East, specifically Japan as far as fashion and concepts and retail just like really appreciating and that kind of thing. And also the ability to make money. Half of it is seeing the opportunity, the other half is making good on it. As far as inspiration I'd say it probably came from there.

After that, I think, just probably watching what's been happening around the country in different stores.

F151: How would you describe the design of your store? What was the inspiration behind it and what type of environment are you trying to create?
STA: Ha, it depends on the day. Independent, local flavor, being able to go somewhere for difference and variety. We just try to keep that, amidst everyone trying to grow as fast as possible, or so it seems. We're only four-and-a-half years old, we're still taking this slow. We're not running, we're walking. We're just wearing hard bottom soles... We got air bubbles now!

F151: How did you decide on your location? How important has the location been?
STA: Ah well, it's still you know, old school rules. It's like location, location, location, it's no less true now than it was then. Location is great, we're still a destination but we get trade before traffic. You know, it's as good as it could be, better than being downtown which would be a lot of people's first choice, but obviously, these guys, some of whom were behind Kicks Hawaii, they had that vision of graffiti [*5:55 WHAT?]. So this location was a good call and it reflects the ideas and minds behind the store's concept and everything else.

F151: What brands do you carry, and which are your top sellers?

STA: Top seller, first and foremost, Saint Alfred, first and foremost. Pretty easy with that. The Hundreds is really good, Stussy's really good, KICKS/HI's actually really good, SSUR is good, there's DQM, HUF, UNDFTD, really good, you know a lot the kind of like-minded brands do really well. Black Scale does good, Crooks still does good. It's been kind of interesting to see Chicago's reaction to them, from them getting crazy coverage in like The Source and, you know, everybody wanting it to them, like, finding like a home with a particular customer. It's kinda weird, Chicago's not the home of fashion, so to speak, you know it's never really referenced like Tokyo or Paris or New York or London. So, you know, some seasons will be great, other times, customers will be looking for something different and Crooks is one of those who managed to recapture their audience with their new direction. So, it's good, you know. If you don't sell, you're not in the store, so you gotta perform.

F151: What brands or specific products are you excited about for Spring / Summer 2010?
STA: Really, Saint Alfred will be putting some things out, we've got a collab with HUF coming up which I'm excited about. Nike x Saint Alfred's store, the off-shoot. The look is based off World Cup Soccer, that's the pop-up store experience for Chicago, we've never had anything on this scale before so that's pretty fresh. So that, plus some projects, various releases and experiences, if you will. Working with Frank151 is cool, add that to the list, been a fan of the magazine for a while. It's cool to do anything with it. It’s like the size for your pocket so on the train or whatever, it's there, it's good.

F151: Are there any trends in fashion that you're excited about, both for Spring / Summer 2010 and beyond?
STA: Individuality. Individuality. People who are willing to break away from that pattern and formulated marketing. I know it sounds like it's going in the face of a lot but I don't think it is, I think it's just, maybe a different look. I'm tired of that, ready for something fresh. I think people are too. I think part of this backlash stems from that. There's definitely a saturation, and it was never meant to be like that. I never saw it being played out ’cause I figured the gatekeepers wouldn't be susceptible. But obviously, you know, money talks and obviously people have seen some things and they're like, "It's not better, so I'll do it for myself, and keep it real." I think that will spread to the customer and people will wear what they like and I'm cool with that. That's what I hope it is.

F151: How has social networking (blogs, Facebook, Twitter, etc.) affected retail for your store and retail in general?
STA: I'm not sure. I don't know. It's still retail. You're communicating the same idea whether it's a conversation inside a physical store or you know, a tweet. It's the same thing. Especially as we have so many experiences in the same way, you know the phone is basically another limb or appendage for most of us, it's just part of us. And with that, it comes across in the same kind of fashion. I don't know if it's really broken anything, but it's definitely affected the physical retailers, you know like your Karmaloops, the Digital Gravels, they've definitely had an overall effect on retail. You know I'm not mad at those places, the communication, the sale, it's a great business model, but as far as affecting retail it definitely [*throws a curve? 11:06].

F151: What about ecommerce? What effect has online sales had on your store and on the broader retail industry?
STA: You know what, I think ecommerce is tricky. But it's how you use it. We have more a vested interest in keeping it tight, it's core. It's not the bullshit. 


F151: What future plans for your store do you have that you’d like to share?
STA: Yeah, we specifically try not to mention too much because, you know my goal is to take it back to where it was when it was good. I mean everybody likes to get the early drop, but it's out of control and again, it's how you use it. Some things I don't want to know about six months in advance. I want to walk in and see something dope and be surprised, like, "Oh, those are fresh." I like that and that's pretty much gone now. And that's why I don't look at web sites a lot of the time 'cos I don't want to know. Sometimes it's cool, but we're trying to take it back to where it was and keep things close, for something different.

F151: What Scion promotional items have been the most popular with your staff and with customers?
STA: Speaking personally it would be socks.

F151: Can you explain the cult following for Scion socks?
STA: Yeah they’re comfortable! They're good, like the construction is good. I can't explain it, it's the best sock I've ever had. It's almost like an insole, it feels like there's cushion under your foot when you put 'em on and plus like the cotton's soft so they feel fresh, it's kinda like stepping out of the shower, you just put on like a fresh tee and some socks and you just feel good.

F151: Do you have a favorite Scion music compilation? Did any of the compilations make it into your store’s music rotation?
STA: Yeah there have been, I've got a few. I've got 'em in my iTunes and we play 'em in the store sometimes. Plus who doesn't love getting free shit, and it's music that really speaks to our target base and 90% of customers coming through the door, so even if they don't like it, getting free music is never a bad thing.